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Our Vagabond Year - Part 5

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 - By Nancy Ferguson -

Crossing the Straits

Even the cloudy day didn’t make leaving Portugal happier for Lisa and Dina. But on a lonely road just short of the Spanish border, we passed two Canadian boys backpacking, and the day brightened. We stopped for them, just a few feet into Spain.

While we were parked, eating oranges and tossing out peel, the Guardia Civil tapped on our window. I didn’t want to mess with the Guardia Civil. But it turned out they weren’t arresting us for littering, they only wanted to warn us to move farther onto the shoulder, for safety’s sake. Whew!

We (especially Lisa and Dina - fickle) were sorry to lose our hitchhikers but as we pondered finding a place to stay in Seville we replaced them with an American couple, Helen and Burt, leading to the best and worst of times. These two were living in Spain for a year and knew the city reasonably well. Soon they talked us into going to Morocco with them.

We stashed Parnassus, boarded a ferry and headed south, passing Gibraltar and landing in Tangier two and a half hours later. The girls were quiet, intimidated by the ragged, dirty, begging children, the half starved, tethered cattle, the veiled women and the men in caftans or burnooses. Dirty, rutted streets, strange smells, bustling crowds, cries of, “Guide? Guide?” echoing in our ears, all contributed to the feeling of landing somehow in a different world; in self defense we hired a guide who led us to the sultan’s palace with its sunny courtyard and beautiful greenery, next to old dilapidated walls by the souk.

Everywhere there was disease and poverty, men sleeping in the streets, women, children, even a three year old, with infants slung on their backs. All across Morocco were ruins: Roman, Carthaginian, Phoenician - and in the distance the beautiful, snow tipped Atlas mountains. In a place called Lixus, we were guided by an old man in a caftan, tennis shoes and purple socks. Lisa and Dina climbed over fallen columns and ancient rocks and rode a camel in the white city of Rabat.

Our disillusion about our companions had begun as they bargained noisily with vendors, a tendency that became overwhelmingly distasteful as the trip progressed. Yes, I know one must haggle. But this was beyond reason, extending to the hotels we chose and the food we ate. I was certainly frugal but by the time we reached Marrakesh, (a red city) in our rented car, we split with our companions, stayed at a decent hotel for one night, and met up with them the following morning, to drive on to Fez.

We spent a week in Morocco, covering a great deal of territory, seeing sights I will always remember. The greatest regret I have of that whole experience was passing a Berber encampment without stopping. Burt was driving and felt it was too dangerous. (!) I couldn’t make him turn around. Black tents spread out across the landscape; tall, strong men on Arabian horses carried long, silver chased rifles, with curved daggers in their belts. Women wore colorful, gilt embroidered skirts, coins jangling and veils covering the lower half of their faces. It was like walking onto an exotic movie set - but this was REAL!

Returning to Spain on the ferry, the only people not sick were the three Fergusons. It was an unpleasant crossing. But we were relieved to leave Helen and Burt behind and spend three days on the Costa Del Sol, celebrating Dina’s thirteenth birthday.

Now rushing on our way, past gypsy cave dwellings, each with a painted door, all along the foothills of the beautiful Sierra Nevadas, stopping in perhaps the most elegant of Spanish cities, Granada, where my girls argued about who would be king, who queen, as they sat in the actual thrones of Isabella and Ferdinand (or so we were told)and we wandered through the Alhambra, the intricately carved Moorish palace, the famous Court of Lions. A brief stop in Barcelona, then north to the border, leaving behind the castanet sound of Spanish, re-tuning our ears to the lilt of French. In Monaco we hoped for a sight of Princess Grace - no luck - and spent a night on the Grand Corniche. We drove back roads through the Riviera, sang Sur le Pont d’Avignon at the appropriate place and picnicked near an aqueduct before driving over that incredible structure still in use as a bridge after 2000 years. It was Sunday when we arrived back in Paris, too tired to do anything but sleep.

When I went to Parnassus on Monday to bring in something we needed, I found everything stored there - summer clothing, extra jackets, fins and snorkels (which we hoped it would someday be warm enough to use) - strewn about the interior, and men’s gloves and a screwdriver on the front seat. By luck of timing I had prevented theft of our belongings and even, perhaps, of Parnassus, as well.

Previous: Read Part IV - Spain and Beyond  Next: Driving Driving Driving


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